Vvolvo

Sa o stapinesti sanatos si vedem mai tirziu "afacerea" si ca sa nu fiu offtopic ,pe topicul colegului icarus86 , si sa stii lucian ca afacerea cu masini merge foarte greu iar vinzatorii de meserie din tirg recurg ,te mint oficial si jovial cu acte chipurile in regula ,ca sa vinda ce mai au pe stoc sa nu stea cu banii bagati aiurea.etc etc.O masina premium ca Volvo nu se vinde precum un Logan care si asta e totusi autoturism pina la urma. Belgia sa traiasca.In general la 220ooo km de ex.,masina pare ca este la a 3, 4 revizie inca in garantie. .Este sport actual pe piata si romanul cumparator acccepta cu nonsalanta.Km reali ii vezi cit de reali au fost dar in alta conjunctura nicidecum la vinzator sau tester. Sa auzim de bine cu masinuta ta foarte multi km si fara vizite in service sau la cunoscuti in domeniu.

La Multi Ani!

Nu vreau sa ma desfasor in detalii dar vazind pozele bagi muuulti bani decit ti s-au spus aici.In fine ,vrei V70 e sigur ca gasesti in Olanda,unde observ ca locuiesti, aceeasi motorizare si optiuni nelovita si cu 170-180 mii km pina max. 9500-10000 doar trebuie sa fii atent zilnic la anunturile locale,zonale. Legat de V50 (am sasiu confort) e lejer in a-l conduce , silentios ca mers ,un pic ca o barca pe valuri.Daca ma dau la ea in plecari mai bruste vad cerul ca se ridica de "bot" muult.M-a interesat motorul D5 si km foarte putini la cumparare.Din ce vad ,optezi pentru litraj mic adica 2L.Am avut si condus Focus-uri dar e diferit de, D5(2400cmc). V50-urilor de 1,6 si 2L sint zgomotoase cu motoare de "moara" PSA dar la final se pot revinde mai usor.Fara suparare si fiecare dupa gusturi si bani Cit priveste V70 model nou, dorit de tine ,nu mai este V70 -ul pe care il stiam ca si confort de acum multi ani dar fiecare invoca motive si motive.Spre ex.pentru mine un V70 este un picut sub Ford Mondeo (new)ca si confort ca sa deviez un pic discutia si costa mult . Sfatul meu este sa cauti un V50 Summum cu maxim de optionale(linia audio mai ales),carte service la zi .Apoi V50 ,odata ce te plictisesti de el sigur il poti revinde.(motorizare 1,6 sau 2L),ORI un new Mondeo Wagon care este masina de famile 100% ,de 2,2L Diesel .Este parfum Alegi masina pe care simti ca ti-o doresti . Bafta

Nivel mic al lichidului de racire. In general vorbind trebuie sa : "Only use the fluid recommended by the manufacturer. Otherwise, you risk seriously damaging your engine. When the engine is warm, the temperature of the coolant is controlled by the engine fan. As this fan can operate with the ignition key removed and because the cooling system is pressurised, wait for at least one hour after the engine has stopped before carrying out any work. Slacken the cap by 1/4 of a turn to release the pressure to prevent any risk of scalding. When the pressure has dropped, remove the cap and top up the level with coolant. If fluid has to be added frequently, this indicates a failure which must be checked by a PEUGEOT dealer as soon as possible.""

La Multi Ani!

La Multi Ani !

Masina nu face acesti bani la echiparea ,motorizarea si accidentarea pe care spui ca o are..Faci cum iti dicteaza inima.Airbagurile fac pe putin 12-15% din pretul actual de vinzare al masinii.Mai este de schimbat si bordul si cine mai stie ce nimicuri mai ai .Zici ,accident frontal usor dar nu ai pus poze sa iti fac o " evaluarea la ochi". Daca avea pina in 40-50 mii merita un calcul.Eu zic ca ma pricep cit de cit la masini atinse ,rasturnate ,etc La multi ani si tie ,Doamne ajuta!

La Multi Ani ,bucurii si sanatate !

....."" N - neutral, the center differential is disconnected from the transmission. So when you tow it, the engine and tranny are inactive. Or if you're not towing, it can roll away on you. 4H - the center differential is a limited slip in this mode. The front and rear "axle" differentials are engaged. The GV doesn't have axles in that sense because the fully independent suspension requires the use of shorter shafts with constant velocity joints. The front and rear differentials are what's called "open", which means they are simple. These simple differentials are funny. On one hand, they have no ability to allow the different turn rates such as happens during cornering. On the other hand, if a wheel starts spinning, they put all their power into uselessly spinning the wheel lacking traction. This means that on pavement, cornering is impaired, while on slippery surfaces, they allow useless wheelspin. A completely plain center differential, when engaged, will still allow the front, or the back, or two diagonally opposite wheels to spin when the traction difference/power differential reaches a certain point. And yes, that's pretty useless. At the same time, when on pavement, the system is so locked together that when cornering, the system will build up and release stress to the point where the vehicle does something that's aptly described as "crow hopping". The GV's limited slip center differential locks the wheels together (up to a point) but at the same time allows for slippage for cornering. This is equivalent to an AWD setup. Limited slip differentials can be built to provide varying amounts of resistance to slippage. The "stiffer" they are, the more they resist wheelspin, but the more they resist the wheels turning at different rates. Sometimes, when backing up with the wheels at full lock, you may experience some lurching or clunking noises from the drivetrain. That's because of the stiffness of the limited slip differential. The stiffer the differential, the more stress you place on drivetrain components. On the GV, traction control using the ABS and the brakes is used to detect and stop wheelspin, which makes up somewhat for the lack of lockable or limited slip differentials at the axles. So what this means is that in 4H, the GV drives through all four wheels, and the slippable center differential allows being in 4wd on pavement because the slippage allows for cornering. 4H Lock. After explaining that, it's easier to understand 4H High. 4H High means the center differential is locked. This makes it more like an old fashioned simple system. On one hand, the front or rear wheels, or two diagonally opposite wheels theoretically can't spin. I use the word "theoretically" because of something I'll get to later. You shouldn't use this mode on bare dry pavement because you don't need it, and because it will stress the driveline components, cost mileage, and induce unwanted forces into cornering dynamics. I would suggest NOT using this mode for slippery highway driving. The reason is that when you initiate a turn, even a slight one, a locked center differential will resist wheels turning at different speeds. It wants them all to be turning at the same rate. In a corner, this will cause one or more wheels to slip relative to the road surface. A wheel sliding even a tiny bit has a huge loss of the traction you need for cornering. In combination with the high center of gravity and stiffer suspensions, this is why you see so many SUV's in the ditch on the first slippery corner in sudden winter conditions. In this mode, they are actually worse than 2wd. The tighter a limited slip differential anywhere on the vehicle is, the more it will tend to do this same thing. The one time I slid off the road with the GV, I believe this played a role. I was in 4H on a extremely slick road, going into a corner. I think one or more wheels started slipping, just from the stiffness of the center differential. The road was so slippery, the yaw forces were so low that the stability control system did not activate even after I steered more sharply into the corner. I should have applied the brakes, so I wouldn't have gone so far off, but I ran out of time to think about what to do. This slippage is ok when "off roading" because you don't have the cornering forces trying to throw you into the ditch, and things happen more slowly. 4L Lock. The only difference here is that the center differential has two gears, and this engages the second of them. This gearing halves the speed in any given gear, so you can climb steeper hills, engine brake more slowly downhill, or creep through really rough stuff. Notice that there's no 4L. And drifting off topic a bit... Now, I have been in a situation where I was in 4L Lock, climbing fairly steeply on a gravel road, with a diagonal ditch to cross. In fact, it's the one in my avatar picture. Though it's not apparent in the picture, the ditch was too deep to cross perpendicularly without hitting the bottom. So I had to go through the ditch more in line with the ditch, which meant doing an "s" turn to sort of go up the ditch as I crossed it. This resulted in two diagonally opposite wheels being unloaded, and given the power I needed to climb the hill, the GV came to a stop with the unloaded wheels spinning. I was kind of shocked by this, since this was exactly why I wanted a 4wd with traction control. The traction control was active, as evidenced by plenty of clacking noises from the spinning wheels. I had to take the ditch at an angle closer to perpendicular to keep the weight more on all four wheels. This meant I had less clearance, but I made it without scraping. Obviously this was not a problem coming down the road, since you're not applying power. I expect the traction control system is set to use the brakes only to a certain point for a couple of reasons. One is to prevent overheating the brakes, as you would in a sustained situation like this. The other is that the more aggressive the traction control system, the stronger the driveline components have to be. For instance, say you were on an extremely steep hill with only one wheel having traction. All the force to lift the vehicle's weight would have to go through that one wheel. This is why the people who build extreme off-road vehicles, with all differentials locked, break driveline components. Any solution to this, such as dialing up the traction control, or making the front and/or rear differentials limited slip or lockable, would require strengthening the driveline.....""" sau mai detaliat pentru orice doresti pe acest forum http://www.suzuki-fo...ck-4l-lock.html Simplu

La Multi Ani!

Fara un tester este cam dificil.Poate fi si presiunea prea mica in rampa sau injectoare mai obosite,vreun senzor "defectuos" pe linia de alimentare cu motorina dupa pompa de inalta.Hai ca daca merge acum ,ii dai de cap sigur ,dupa sarbatori.

Sarbatori fericite tuturor si un Craciun cu bucurii alaturi de cei dragi!

La Multi Ani!

NU ai nici un rulment defect,fii linistit.Mai schimba lichid servo sau in caz exceptional auxiliara.Dupa ce se incalzeste un pic motorul dispare zgomotul ,nu? Daca tot te legi de orice nimic vei ajunge sa o mai cumperi odata ,masina.Probabil ca banii sint maculatura pentru tine.

.."contractia" ghetii prin marirea volumului".. exprimarea simpla era cum zici tu , "dilatare". Scuze domnu' Roberto pentru comentariile mele

Alex ,proportia intre antigel si cit lichid inghetat are nu este periculoasa (1la 3,5 )ca si urmari de igienizare DAr am zis sa curete bine instalatia si apoi sa foloseasca dupa curatare,DACA vrea sa rezolve in timp util. Altfel lasa masina in garaj si timpul isi va spune cuvintul.Fii linistit ca nu este asa critic si distructiv precum crezi .In momenet limita alegi uneori si solutii limita care totusi nu sint distructive ci doar un pic mai laborioase ,dupa, fara costuri suplimentare. Daca baga alcool pur acesta nu are efect introducind doar 1-2l .In fine nu mai dau sfaturi ca oricum pe sfaturile mele astea cite sint, nu fac 2 bani aci pe forum. Poate de frig va pocni motorasul prin contractia ghetii si va fi minunat. Roberto nu lua in considerare ce am spus.

Sigur.Din comanda manetei de stergator parbriz vei avea si comanda pt spalator faruri sau vei face cu un montaj cu temporizare dar avind comanda tot din maneta spalat parbriz Ori la reprezentanta si iesi mai elegant si "ieftin". :smile:De cite ori insa vei actiona maneta spalator parbriz vei avea si spalare de faruri daca faci cu temporizare iar daca faci pe direct adica comnada simultana motor spalator parbriz cu motor spalator faruri poti avea mici diferenete depinzind de cit mult timp tii (3,4 secunde )apasata maneta de spalator parbriz

Risca-te cu 1l de antigel pur si apoi sa ai rabdare un timp ,pina miine de ex. iar dupa rezolvare sa iti cureti bine instalatia de spalare parbriz cu solutie de iarna .Sa nu folosesti stropitorile decit dupa ce ai curatat-o.

Cu stetoscopul a incercat?!

Ca o mica informatie fara pret de ceva deosebit,bujiile te ajuta in primul rind sa ai in camera de ardere (interiorul cilindrului) o temperatura mai ridicata pentru a avea o explozie la comprimare a motorinei ,mai completa si pornire usoara pe timp rece.Valorile rezistive ale bujiilor incandescente trebuie sa fie aceleasi(pe cit posibil) ca valoare .Daca ai si DPF... Si uite asa Dar daca ai fost la reprezentanta nu contest ce ti-a zis chiar daca e de comentat sau nu .Ai mers la service atunci asculta parerea lor ,acolo ti-ai facut masina ,ei raspund de ceea ce fac.Informeaza-te si singur mai bine . Nu incurca lucrurile

.....face poc. Era odata o vorba ,"ce are ..cu prefectura ."

La Multi Ani!!

Multumesc de informatie Bogdan, nu stiam .Cam este nu stiu cum dar in fine. Alte reprezentante de care vorbeam sint premium top sau Ford ,deci exclus Dacia -Renault. Oricum nu conteaza . Sa vedem ce face colegul cu filtru

Offtopic..Are cineva Dice ,stricat ,defect ,de vinzare?!!Fara clone

Oglinda Sh (suedia) si iesi mai ieftin.Nu e vreo noutate ce spun.Sau daca gasesti de noi numai acele repere ce iti lipsesc,cu atit mai bine.