Pocnete in zona bordului-pasager

[muadDib 37]

Azi de vreo 3 ori, mi-a facut masina o faza suspecta:

- In bord, in dreapta, la pasager, face o serie de 6-7 pocnete ritmice, frecventza: una pe secunda. Pocnete clare, se aud bine, sunetul este la fel ca cel al unei roti dintate care "scapa".

A mai patit cineva treaba asta? Mie sa nu fie ceva pe la airbag, sa nu imi explodeze ala in fata...

Si ca lamurire, face in primele 2-3-4 minute de la pornire, si nu se mai repeta cat timp nu opresc undeva si pornesc din nou...

[muadDib 37]

Eu centrez, eu dau cu capul. 

Cred ca problema este explicata aici:

http://www.volvo-forums.com/t14967-tapping-noise-from-air-vent.htm

http://www.volvo-forums.com/t7608-dashboard-knocking-noise.htm

Sunt la servici, cand ies din tura verific daca nu cumva am recircularea aerului pornita... Cred ca am lasat-o pornita de cand am mers in spatele unui camion fumator rau

Apropo, masinile astea ale noastre au filtru de polen? Unde?

[muadDib 37]

Intrucat m-am lamurit ca este o problema foarte raspandita la S/V40 MK1, bag aici procedura de reparatie gasita:

1. First remove the dash bottom cover on the passenger side (two screws).

2. Unscrew two screws on the hinges of the glove compartment and remove the glove compartment.

3. Unscrew the 3 screws on the wall behind the glove compartment.

4. Pop out the round plastic plug on bottom of the dash on left side. And unscrew the 10mm screw behind it.

5. To gain acces to the same screw on the left of the passenger side you will have to unscrew and remove the lining on the left side of the middle console. Only one screw, it's easy to find.

6. After you have unscrewed the 10mm hex screw on the left side use flat screwdriver to pop off the metal bar you just unscrewed with the hex screws and push it aside or take it out completely. This will give you some extra room for your hands. Trust me, you will need it.

7. Now take a very short philipshead screwdriver, Pull the dash away so much that you can reach in from the right side under the side window air vent.

You should see the servo's plastic housing with a cable coming in from the top right and white plastic arm protrouding from the front left. This motor is secured with 3 screws. One on top right and two on the bottom left.

Find the top screw and unscrew it.

8. There is no room to unscrew the two bottom crews this way. You would have to take out the whole dash to do it properly, but you can do it this way.

Drill two holes in the top right corner of the wall behind the glove compartment. First one about a centimeter from the top and almost tight to the right wall (the only concern is, that you will still need room for the screwdriver handle when unscrewing the crew). Second hole should be about 3 cm to the left and at the same height. For the right possition of both holes, reach behind the dash and feel the screws. I used a 15mm router drilling bit just because it makes clean holes and I had ruber plugs that fitted the holes perfectly plus I was guessing the location of the screws so I figured this way I can get more manuvering space.

9. Now unscrew the two screws

10. Turn the white plastic arm a bit so that it dissengages the metal rod and pull out the servo.

11. On the servo housing you will find plastic clips that hold it together. Carefully pry them away and open the housing as far as you can. (be carefull. they are very easy to break).

12. There are 3 plastic gears in there plus a snal gear on the motor and the part that moves the arm. Try to figure out how they are assembled so that you will be able to put them back after. You might have some trouble getting the housing to open fully. This is because of the partial gear on the arm. it is cought behind another gear wich has to pass by the snail gear on the motor before it will pop open. Try to pry it apart but be carefull not to break anything.

13. After you have opened the housing you will notice, that the snail gear on the motor axle has been pulled off center. This is why the motor was just clicking. Push the gear back on so that it is in center of the gear wich engages it when assembled.

14. Now pull out the metal axels on wich the gears were and stick them in the holes of the lid. Reassemble all the gears and join the top and bottom parts. The clips will lock nicely if you did it properly.

15. reverse all the steps to reassemble.

P.S.: Dont worry about the alighnment of the arm. It will turn to the proper position when you engage the recirc button.

pps i found this solution elswhereand have just cut and pasted it here.dont want to take the credit for someone else but thought i would share it with use.it does work as i have already fixed my volvo and the wifes.

God luck!

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[mihai_s40 1]

filtrul de polen e pe partea dreapta, in interior,mai in spate, cam cat poti sa intinzi picioarele .2 suruburi ca sa dai capacul de sub torpedou jos, inca o clema, si o sa vezi capatul de jos al filtrului de polen

[Guest VVV850]

Acele pocnete presupun ca sunt ca cele ce televizor in momentul opririi lui. Daca da, atunci nu ai de ce sa iti faci probleme, l-am intalnit si la alte masini, inclusiv Peugeot. Acest zgomot apare datorita diferentei de temperatura, si afecteaza materialul "prost" imbinat.

[muadDib 37]

Nu, pocnete sunt clare, si sunt cauzare chiar de o roata dintata de plastic care sare pe un ax dintat (cum am banuit de la inceput), care ax este sarit din pozitia lui. Pe scurt, este o problema de design a sistemului de recirculare aer, mai precis a mecanismului de comanda a clapetelor. Am gasit multe referinte la problema asta, de aceea e de studiat.

Problema apare cand recircularea este activa si pornesti motorul.

Solutia step-by-step e cea de mai sus, destul de simpla, cu o singura problema, niste suruburi imposibil de ajuns fara a demonta toata coaja de bord, la care isa exista o solutie ce implica ... gaurire. Intr-o zona ascunsa insa, deci nu e chiar taranism...

[Guest S40]

Si eu am zgomote asemanatoare (ca de roata dintzata) dar nu apar cand am recircularea pornita, ci cand sunt pe auto, atat cu "viteza" aerului cat si cu "distribuirea" lui...daca mut viteza aerului pe pozitia 1-2-3-4 sau 5 zgomotul dispare.

De asemenea, nu e permanent, apare la pornire, si din cand in cand in mers.....deocamdata nu am luat alte masuri decat.....muzica mai tare!!

[pengo 0]

Azi de vreo 3 ori, mi-a facut masina o faza suspecta:

- In bord, in dreapta, la pasager, face o serie de 6-7 pocnete ritmice, frecventza: una pe secunda. Pocnete clare, se aud bine, sunetul este la fel ca cel al unei roti dintate care "scapa".

A mai patit cineva treaba asta? Mie sa nu fie ceva pe la airbag, sa nu imi explodeze ala in fata...

Si ca lamurire, face in primele 2-3-4 minute de la pornire, si nu se mai repeta cat timp nu opresc undeva si pornesc din nou...

Scuze daca sunt offtopic .. insa ma gandesc sa nu mai deschid topic nou.

Am si eu un zgomot asemanator ... insa la mine este un scartait, in aceeasi zona. Initial am crezut ca este vorba de un element de caroserie... un mecanic mi-a spus ca de fapt scartaitul este din bord. Scartaie cand plec de pe loc, sau treapta a doua, deci cand se exercita forta de tractiune asupra masinii. Ce m-a pus pe mine pe ganduri ... scartaitul este mai puternic daca masina este mai incarcata.

Are cineva idee despre ce e vorba ?

[KPAX 5]

Si la mine se simt aceleasi simptome doar ca eu stiu clar ca sunt de la elicea ventilatorului care in ceva tip o sa se transfome intr-un huruit. Am intalnit aceasta problema si la alte marci.  vb de faptul ca frecarea dintre ax si elice conduce catre eliminarea vaselinei si prin urmare apare frecare de fier pe fier sau plastic si asa mai departe. Cum insa se poate rezolva exact nu stiu dar stiu ca trebuie bagata vaselina pe acolo pe undeva. La un Nissan dupa ce l-am dus in service, a doua zi disparuse gomotul si asa explicatie mi-a fost data de catre mecannici.